i have a 77 c10 at first i was loking to just do a flipkit just leave one spring in and then slap baggs on it for ride control. but then realized that would be stupid. now im looking to do a 4 link with bags. i already got the bags and started looking for 4 link set ups but i don't have a grand or more. i work on tractor trailors so i am familair with bags but the set ups i see on pickups are alot different i thought of doing it like a tractor but i figured the rear would move from side to side unless i set the axle at the same height every time. i am looking to do this all in my garage make my own notch and all the brakets so if any one could tell me a few things i have been wondering..... what keeps the rear from moving side to side with a 4 link nothing seems to go from side to side to hold it i have a 383 with a lot of torque that could be a problem. should i mount the bags in front of the axle or behind, looking to have a good ride but get good lift at the same time. where should i mount 4 links at. and what size heim joints should i use. thanks guys looking forward to your comments and if anyone has any pictures of there c10 or related truck they did i would love to get some more ideas mean57man@yahoo.com is my email
   thanks trey

Hey man, welcome to the forum.  You're right, the bags on semi's and pick up trucks are pretty different in size.

They can be in front of the axle, but most of the time, when they get mounted to the axle, they are behind it.  Other times, they are mounted on the 4 link bars instead of the axle.  This yields more lift and a little softer ride.

If you have a parallel 4 link on the vehicle, usually a panhard bar or watts link  is used to keep the axle from moving side to side.

Another way to keep the axle in check, is to triangulate the 4 link bars.  There is some really good information in the Beginner's Corner and Advanced Workshop links at the top of the page.

Again, welcome to the forum!

thanks for th info i looked at the watts link and a panhard bar the watts link is a good setup but is a little exspensive for my wallet at the time the panhard bar is what i was thinking of doing that just mounts to the top of the rear to the frame right? thats the way it is setup on tractors like im used to but the thing is if i don't set the axle at the same position every time the rear would be at a different spot side to side right. i don't want my truck tracking going down the road. i planned on triangulating my 4 link would that take care of it all together thanks again

Triangulation means less bushings and stuff to keep greased or wear out, and yes, it would alleviate the axle moving side to side.

Yes, the panhard bar causes the axle to move side to side as it goes up and down, but at least it's not moving side to side uncontrollably.  I don't like the idea of a panhard bar, but it's hard to rule it out as an option since it does work. Just doesn't work as well as a watts link or as well as triangulating the 4 link bars.

triangulating tthe bars is when you take two of the bars and run them from the pumpkin on the rear to a crosmember and how does that make less to grease just because you don't have a panhard os a watts. im tying to get pictures on but having problems getting my stuff on but i found a website that has alot on 4 links kind of for 4x4 but gives you all the correct measurments and stuff but may be a little over kill or not don't know maybe it will help someone
 http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/techarticles/suspension/131_0307_four_link_suspension_part_2/index.html

The fewer bushings you have, the less you have to grease or keep greased, and also the fewer things to wear out.

A parallel 4 link with a watts or panhard has more bushings and pivoting parts.