I came up with this diagram almost a year ago.  I've since been debating whether or not to do it because of the extra space that the 8 extra valves would require, plus Jason has valve flow controls at Suicidedoors that could be routed to the inside of the cab so you could tweak them from inside.  Slam Specialties also has dual orifice valves but they are costly and the slow speed is super slow.


IF  I go ahead with it,  I will let you all know how it turns out.  Otherwise, here it is if it helps anyone who wants to try it.
   
(Click on image for larger version)

Hi. I'm new to the site, and a little new to air systems too. I've been reading around for a couple of days and now I think I'm an expert ... Great site!

Anyway, I'm thinkin on putting an air suspension system in my truck (is the vehicle I use everyday to work and all that...) and this diagram was something I was planning on doing so, because you know, sometimes I would just like to "fine-tune" the height and PSI and other times, just to play with it.

Great idea, I think I will do it this way...

Thanks for the site!

One question, if you activate both fill valves (the fast one and the slow one) at the same time, will the movement be faster? Same with the dump?

Thanks!

Actually, yes it will be a little faster.   Also, if you had it wired to use the 1/2" fill and 1/4" dump at the same time, or the 1/2" dump and 1/4" fill, you could achieve yet a fourth speed that I would anticipate (but can't confirm) to be close to that of 3/8" valves.


You also can wire a single switchbox to a selector toggle to select either fast or slow.  This way you can  keep it simple and have only one switchbox, but then flip a switch on the dash or something, to change the speed.  I'm working on the wiring diagram right now.

Actually, yes it will be a little faster.   Also, if you had it wired to use the 1/2" fill and 1/4" dump at the same time, or the 1/2" dump and 1/4" fill, you could achieve yet a fourth speed that I would anticipate (but can't confirm) to be close to that of 3/8" valves.


You also can wire a single switchbox to a selector toggle to select either fast or slow.  This way you can  keep it simple and have only one switchbox, but then flip a switch on the dash or something, to change the speed.  I'm working on the wiring diagram right now.

Quote from: 98SS on 04/02/07, 06:19 PM

Thanks for the reply.

I was thinking about that one two, one swith as a "speed selector", the only idea I can come up is a relay with each of the valves (fast and slow) on terminal 87 and 87a, and the corresponding switch at the control box at terminal 30, so when you swith on or off the relay, it will switch to the other valve. They will be 8 relays total.

Is that what you were planning? Or maybe you had a better idea since you have a lot more experience than me.

I see what you are saying, and it will definitely work, but I'm trying to figure out how to do it with less clutter.

Here ya go ... one relay, and use the same switchbox for both speeds.

EDIT: Image removed. Diagram did not work.   -Tim

That's a great idea, but I think that way it will not work, when the relay is OFF, the 87A and 30 terminals are connected, so none of the valves will work, none of them is connected to ground.

When you activate the relay, 87 and 30 are conected, so then the 1/2" valves will work.

I know that it might be an error in the drawing, because I see you have a great idea, just change the wire connected to the 1/2" valves to terminal 87 and ground to terminal 30, that way it will work great. Everything else just stays that way.

Great idea!

Another great idea will be to disconnect the 1/4" valves from termial 87A and just plug them to a constant ground, so when you activate the relay you have both (1/2" and 1/4") valves at the same time for a faster speed.

Yeah, I missed that.  Deleted image from host and re-uploaded the correct image.  The diagram in Reply#6 is fixed.

Haha, scratch the first one .... you don't need a relay at all ...
EDIT .... scratch this one too.

Nice... Also, check out this post http://www.airridetalk.com/forum/struts/shocks-138.msg755.html#new

You have been the only one to help people here, so I though you could take a look, if that's not too much to ask

Thanks!

Actually the way you had it was right with the relay . I do it like that with some of my own home made emergency lighting . When the relay is not active , the terminal 87A is active reguardless because it is in it's resting position . I used a similar setup for my horn switch for my emergency setup on my siren . Switch off  normal horn , switch on  siren air horn . And that was through my factory horn switch . I am also going to be using the same setup for my compressors . 87 to the electric compressor , 87A to the EDC . When the switch is off , the EDC will automatically be the default compressor . By the way , where did you go to for the wiring schematic maker ? I really could use it .

By the way , here are a couple of pics of my most complicated flasher box , but it is really simple .

This is how it looks looking into it . There are 3 double pole double throw relays , 1 single pole double throw relay , i single pole single throw relay , a turn signal flasher and a fuse block .

And here is the underside . Looks a lil cluttered , but ends up with the head lights alternating flashing along with 12 others . Really quite simple . And it is also how i know the diagram with the relay that you have on here will work .

Here is a pic of the box that i will be mounting in my bed for all the recessary wiring for my whole air system . In it will be a fuse block , 2 single pole single throw relays , and a single pole double throw relay . The SPDT will select between the EDC and Electric compressors while the one relay will trigger the compressor to run and the other relay will put power to the switch box . The terminal block is for the actual switchbox wiring , to make it easier to disconnect and work on . I am going to be using RCA jacks and wires to run to my valves . I am thinking , instead of having a major undertaking if i split a wire , i'll just be able to go to most anywhere and pick up a set of RCA cords for an amp and just unplug the old and plug in the new one .

I drew it in Paint.  Manually.  No "schematic maker".

Yeah the first diagram will work, with the relay, but it's not necessary. 

What I like about the toggle, is that you can air out when you park, and then switch the toggle to "OFF".  That way, if someone broke into your truck/car, they may be stumped at why your switchbox doesn't work and they won't be able to leave with the vehicle if you hid the toggle somewhere.  But that's assuming that the thief is familiar with air ride to begin with.

True . I was actually thinkin of tryin to make one of the finger swiper things for computers work as a security disable for my switchbox . Then it will be truly un stealable , unless my thumb is scanned .

Well, the wiring diagrams that I posted did not work. For some reason, the 1/2" ones would also work even when I switched to 1/4" only. 

I've redone the wiring and now all the valves are grounded to themselves as many people do, but I took all of the leads and am going to run them through a set of 4PDT (on-on-on) switches.  I know this one will work, I just need to get it wired to the toggles.  I have the cables routed and ready, I'm just running 1/4" speed right now.
Wire colors in this diagram are representative of the wires in AVS switchboxes.
(click to enlarge)



Please note, I also have my AVS box wired in "reverse". The grey wire can't be used to dump.   With it wired backwards, you would activate the fills instead.
Leave the grey wire disconnected if any of you reverse wire your AVS box.